Tags
covered wagons, emmigrants, gnomes, history, Idaho history, Melba, Oregon Trail, pioneers, sculpture, yard art
My part of the world was civilized (that is whitified) between the 1840s and the late 1860s. Boise—named earlier by the French fur trappers who stumbled upon this fertile valley, bisected by a tree-lined river—was a refreshing stop along the way for once dreamy-eyed white settlers hell-bent for the promised land of Oregon and for equally dreamy-eyed would-be silver and gold miners determined to find their winning stakes in the implacable mountain ranges of the west. Of course, by the time they reached Boise, the dreams in their eyes had been clouded by buckets of dust, pain, hunger, sorrow, and disappointment. And here, one more raging river impeded progress.
Some crossed the river at Three Island or Two Island Crossing north of Boise, which at that time was more fort than town. For those who skipped the northern crossing, a hundred or so miles downstream was one more chance to cross. In 1863 this site became the stage crossing for traffic between San Francisco and Boise. The difficult crossing was enhanced by a ferry service. Today, of course, we swoop across the river on a sturdy steel bridge, barely registering the geographical nightmare that confronted our predecessors.
I’ve crossed the bridge at Walters Ferry many times on my eager way to or from some desert adventure. Curious about the jumble of buildings just south of the bridge, this time I stopped for a gander.
Billed as Cleo’s Ferry Museum, I expected the usual display of pioneer gear plus explanations about the evolution of the crossing, from swimming behind hopeful hooves to the construction of the bridge in 1921. What I found was the most astonishing collection of kitsch and platitudes I’ve ever seen in one place.
There must be a thousand birdhouses and signs to guide visitors along the half-mile paved pathway which passes a tiny sanctuary perched on a hill with a view of the river and the fields and mountains beyond. The entire site is flanked by three tremendous white crosses and an equally huge rainbow on the hill behind the property. (I thought maybe the rainbow was a sign of inclusiveness, but maybe not . . . )
Mixed in with the over the top kitsch are entire tableaux of really beautifully executed bronze sculptures.

Yes, this is Noah’s ark, beside a corral of concrete African wild game. (See the giraffe surveying the surroundings?
I learned from further research that the “museum” was established by Dr. S.A. Swayne’s wife, Cleo. There is a cluster of old locked buildings, one of which appears to hold a collection of old-time medical instruments, probably once tools of her husband’s trade. I guess Mrs. Swayne had a lot of time and money on her hands. Cleo began her project in 1978 an kept at it for thirty years until her death at the age of 95.
Despite the busyness, Cleo created a quiet, contemplative garden here in the high desert back country of southern Idaho. Rounding each bend in the path, I shook my head in wonder at the overpopulation of gnomes, fairies, gazing balls, license plates, birdhouses, and sundry other anachronisms. But I was smiling the whole time I was there.


Sources Cited:
Idaho for the curious; a guide. Cort Conley. 1982 Backeddy Books, Cambridge, ID
http://www.findagrave.com/cgi-bin/fg.cgi?page=gr&GRid=95585658
Loved the story and the pictures of this hidden treasure – and got a vicarious thrill seeing this special place through your eyes. I, too, smiled the whole time I was “there”…
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Sweet. Glad to shuffle you out of the office for a few minutes. 😉
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Absolutely amazing what you find on your little detours!! Beautiful pictures! Love the white peacock! Who’s caring for all the “creatures”?
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Ah, there’s the rub, Glenda. If I did my due diligence as a “reporter” I’d have talked with a man whom I believe is caretaking the place. I didn’t see him till I was about to leave, and at that time there were about a dozen of his friends shadowing him. I think they were locals from nearby Melba or one of the other farming communities around there. It looked like they’d come out for a Sunday jaunt and to visit with him. I’m too damned shy to approach, especially in a situation like that. But I do believe there are people living there. The little stone house that sort of looks like a castle has a sign on it that says “private residence.” And also, there’s a house up by the road that it looks like someone is living in. Glad you enjoyed. I’m always disappointed with my pictures. It’s encouraging to hear that other people like them. ;-/
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You stopped for a gander and ended up with some beautiful and very diverse pictures. Thanks for taking us on this tour. Makes me feel I’ve been walking along with you. For how long did it take you to wander along all these different places? It’s interesting to reflect on the difficulties these early pioneers did come up with.
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I spent a little over an hour at Walter’s Ferry. Really, the path is not very long, and there were almost no other people, even though it was a weekend. I did hunger for more actual history of the site. I actually learned more when I did some research from home. And yes, I am always amazed at what these people endured, the losses they took for granted, especially the women. Something like 90% (don’t quote that number, but it’s high) of the women that traveled west were either pregnant when they headed out or became pregnant along the way. That fact adds a whole other dimension to their struggles. Thanks for dropping by!
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Das war einmal wieder eine herrliche Geschichte und typisch Linda. Herzlichen Dank und liebe Grüsse aus Hamburg
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Vielen Dank, Elmar! Es erfreut mich, zu Du zu erfreust!
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What a treat! I love the rich history here and your pictures are just lovely – especially the mountain range.
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Thanks, Renee. I am forever dissatisfied with my photos, but I’m happy to know you enjoyed them.
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Love all that whimsical, kitchy stuff.
Watched an interesting programme last night on the “Dust Bowl” and how it came about. I think part 2 is tonight on PBS.
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Sybil, is that a Ken Burns production? I think I’ve heard of it.
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I’ve got to go there this summer! What a fun getaway! I think my mom would love it. Thank you for the idea, Linda!
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Yes, it would be a great excursion for her. There are lots of benches along the way, inviting a rest. But I think it gets pretty hot in the summer so I would recommend an early morning visit or one in the spring before the summer heat overwhelms us.
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Ahhh, the sign of a true artist…never quite satisfied!
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My most loyal cheerleader!
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Great post! You’re always exploring, you curious thing you.
It’s a wild place isn’t it? I explored it with a couple of friends two or three years ago and felt as much like I was walking through the mind of the woman who created it all as the site itself. The swings between kitsch and deep beauty (setting/bronzes) was disorienting at times. What I REALLY wanted to do was get into that little museum with all the old medical equipment. There was an iron lung in there, which I would have loved to examine. I had a patient who’d lived with the after effects of polio for over 50 years (quadriplegic) and she used to tell me stories about the polio hospital she was in for a couple of years and the “severe” cases who were basically housed in iron lungs. Her life and her stories brought the pre-vaccine world alive for me in a way that I’d never understood before. My friends did go over and talk to the caretaker man and evidently they hold big bonfires down there for a few nights in December every year. People bring their music and instruments and it sounded like a great time. Something on the list to do someday. 🙂
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You nailed it with the disconnect between beauty & kitsch. Searching online, I discovered that the miniature pony club in Nampa sometimes meets there at during the Christmas holidays to clip clop through down the paths with their mini ponies and mini carts. Lots a mini stuff goin’ on there!
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“I was smiling the whole time I was there.” I imagine that was part of the motivation for creating the place. Obviously, it’s also been the scene of a lot of heartache.
Great post, Linda. If I ever get to Idaho, I’d love to visit Walter’s Ferry.
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To be honest, I can thing of places that are far more beautiful in Idaho. But this place was surely whimsical.
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thanks for the photos….took my grandchildren on the nature trail…they loved it…saw a snake…
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I’m so glad you enjoyed it. Hope that snake was the non-lethal kind!
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Thanks for this post. My aunt and uncle ran the grocery store/service station when I was a young boy, my mother and I lived there a time as well. I have many fond and happy memories of the place, especially the old museum and rock chapel. I learned how to play shuffleboard on the West side of the museum. The store closed not long after the new bridge opened and was moved to the present location up the hill. Good memories. Thanks again.
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How cool! I’d love to hear some of your memories! Would you like to do a guest post, perchance?
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the place is absolutely beautiful it’s different but beautiful my husband and I actually got married there at the little prayer garden. its like the sanctuary for my family and my husband and I. its where we go to get away and just be outside, enjoying nature and enjoy the company of each other it definitely brings us all back together and reminds us of all the love have as family. Its serenity. Beautiful pictures for such a unique yet beautiful place.
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Thank you! Yes, it is a really cool place and I think it’s just about due for another visit. 😉
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Mom was going to, but it all got washed away when a guy built a wall across the aroyo near us. Everyone but him (townie fron L.A.) knew better. We had mostly mason jars and transformers. Washed away all my jasper and obsidian as well.
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Oh man, that must have been disappointing. I guess you’re lucky it was just the glass that got washed away and not your family! There is no end to ignorance, eh? Take good care, and thanks for stopping by.
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Today my boyfriend took my two boyz n I for the first time.. they loved it..
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Oh, how cool! I’m glad you all enjoyed it. It’s a funny place, isn’t it. And today was a perfect day for a visit. Thanks so much for stopping by and sharing your experience.
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