It’s been a month since I left Iceland. I took copious notes and too many photos. I’ve nagged the non-writer in me, to write something about this trip, this adventure, this bucket list item. But I couldn’t wrap my head around the experience enough to see it for what it was. Then I began reading a book, given to me by a dear and insightful friend. Author Eric Weiner devotes an entire chapter of his book, The Geography of Bliss, to the little country of Iceland. This island unto itself is about the size of the state of Ohio. Fewer people live in this space than live in my small metropolis of Boise, Idaho.
So what is it about Iceland that makes it so special? So unique? So unparalleled? Weiner is fascinated by Iceland’s unexpectedly high ranking on several databases that measure the happiness of countries around the world. How can a place that is beset by eternal darkness for part of the year and eternal brightness for the other part of the year possibly cradle such notable happiness? How can a place that requires wool and neoprene for the bulk of the year be so cavalier? How can people be so content when their lives seem so burdened with hard labor and repair? When a hurricane slams into an American coastline, we lose people, we lose heart, and we lose money. When one of Iceland’s many volcanoes hurks molten lava onto ice to form an oozy mass of mud that rolls inexorably to the sea, taking land, animals, buildings, roads, and bridges with it, Icelanders just pull on their mukluks, rev up their bulldozers, and begin rebuilding.
Much is said about Icelandic sobriety—or lack thereof. Surely I missed the underbelly of despair that undoubtedly exists in pockets of Iceland. But my visit to the capital city of Reykjavik coincided with Iceland Airwaves, an annual music festival that has been stirring up the pop music world for 14 years. Venues blanket the very walkable downtown and clubs stay open pretty much all night. Yet even with all of this hoopla, I was never accosted by bleary-breathed drunks as I hiked the city in search of my next fabulous meal. No, I don’t believe Icelandic happiness is the result of drunken nirvana.
Iceland emanates a warmth that belies the country’s northern latitude and darkening skies. The people are friendly, unassuming, well-educated, generous, and eager to talk about their country. The literacy rate in Iceland is one of the highest in the world. Poets and writers are considered part of the national treasure, right along with the plethora of mineral baths and thermal pools. I found a thriving capital city that was both modern and old-fashioned without seeming clichéd. The museums, art galleries and public art were plentiful and tasteful. The streets, sidewalks, and parks were immaculate and shop windows were chic and tempting, right down to the realistically-nippled manikins—or would that be herikins?
Iceland also bears the reputation of being ultra-expensive. Granted, my inept math struggled to convert Icelandic Kroners to dollars. But after all the charges came in on my visa bill, nothing looked particularly frightening. While vacationing, I eat well. None of my Icelandic meals cost more than $50 and that included wine and dessert. In the states, it is not unusual to drop that much on a meal, once the tip is added in—tips are absolutely verboten in Iceland, that’s what wages are for, don’t you know?
The condition of Icelandic roads puts my state to shame. A population of 350,000 has no need for multi-lane highways and cloverleaf overpasses. But a pristine two-lane road with hundreds of bridges encircles the island—despite frequent natural disasters, I never saw a pothole.
Aside from the many things I found interesting or amazing, Weiner is right. There is a palpable feeling of contentment associated with Iceland. The inhabitants of this ever-changing land seem reconciled to an ultimate lack of permanence. Everything we know today could be completely transformed by tomorrow. The boredom of seeing the same old faces year after year could be interrupted by the sudden emergence of a new volcano. To accept this knowledge, perhaps relieves people of the need to excel, to worry, to hurry, to fret. Life is what you make of it. The people of Iceland are content to live in the moment, to fully focus and engage with each other and with their guests. I felt an unexpected sense of longing as I boarded the plane to leave Iceland. I was not longing to be home, I was longing to see more of this land of fire and ice.
George Weaver said:
Your description is so captivating that I want to visit. And, I never want to visit anywhere. The people, most of all, sound like my kind of folks. Just downright charming, Linda! Beautiful photographs don’t hurt diminish your description either!
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rangewriter said:
What high praise coming from someone whose writing and photography blow me away. I am glad I was able to do justice to the people of Iceland. They are unique. I fear, though, it is becoming the new ‘hip’ place to visit.
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ayunherbal said:
i like it post
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rangewriter said:
Thank you.
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allesistgut said:
Great impressions. I would like to go there again in the colder season.
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rangewriter said:
Thank you. Me too! Actually, I was thinking warmer, so that I could explore the highlands. But really, during the middle of winter would be fun, also. More possibility for Northern Lights.
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VisitSiena said:
beautiful photos 🙂
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rangewriter said:
Thank you kindly!
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Hannah in Iceland said:
Great photos 🙂
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rangewriter said:
Thanks! I see you have some great shots, too. Are you there now? I admire you for learning the language. Its not an easy one. The people are so cool.
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Hannah in Iceland said:
Thanks! and Yep. I’m here till the end of summer, then to Denmark for a semester, than back here for a semester. The people Are great. And I’m slowly picking up bits of the language. It really is a tough one. I’m studying Old Norse (Old Icelandic) at the University, so that certainly helps.
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rangewriter said:
How cool! Are you a language major? I bet you’re seeing some wonderful displays of the Northern Lights! I’m way jealous. Must come back.
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Hannah in Iceland said:
I’m getting a Master’s in Viking and Medieval Norse studies, which includes studying Old Norse.
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auntyuta said:
Have you been there only for the time of the music festival, Linda?
Some aspects of life on Iceland seem to be very appealing. Beautiful pictures! Thanks for sharing.
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rangewriter said:
Actually, Auntyuta, I had no idea there was a music festival going on till I stumbled into a venue that was setting up for that evening in one of the museums downtown. And also, on the flight home I talked to a young man from Seattle who had gone to Iceland specifically for this festival. He had partaken of all the partying and couldn’t say enough good about the quality of the musicians and the fabulous ambiance of the city.
I will be posting more about my adventure. 😉
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auntyuta said:
Looking forward to it, Linda. Did I hear correctly today in the news that a huge storm is approaching towards Northern Europe coming from Greenland via Island?
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rangewriter said:
Boy, I don’t know. I need to turn on the news right now. I know there’s a huge storm over the States right now. Fortunately, not much has happened yet where I live.
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Sandra Parsons said:
Now I am torn. On one hand I would love to go to Iceland, especially since all the volcanic activity is right up my alley. On the other hand I hate the cold so I guess I’ll have to go in summer and bring warm clothes. One day when the kids are old enough. Definitely on my bucket list, too. And your photos, Linda… The one with the snowy mountain rising from the orange (from lychen?) plain looks like it stems from a professional picture collection to lure tourists to this spot. Magnificent!
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rangewriter said:
Yes, I would recommend summer for you. You’ll miss the Northern Lights, but you’ll stay a lot warmer. I think it’s probably pretty nice most of the time during the summer…unless you get caught in a volcanic eruption…;-o
Oh, the photo you liked? That’s a snowy mountain rising out of a bubbling hot spring area. The orange color comes from the minerals in the water. There’s a mineral bath real near that area. You’d love the many mineral baths and hot springs, I suspect. We met Germans during our soak. Actually, the only other people who were there that day!
Thanks for your kind words. I’ll be posting some more photos soon.
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btg5885 said:
Wow. Thanks for sharing these breathtaking photos.
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rangewriter said:
Thank you. There will be more.
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reneejohnsonwrites said:
The snow on your blog is so perfect for your trip to Iceland. I can’t tell you how fascinated I am by this trip. I don’t often think ‘Iceland’ when I’m yearning for a trip, but you are changing that. Every picture is just stunning. Love them all. BTW – there is no such thing as too many pictures. Keep on snapping.
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rangewriter said:
I took a LOT of pictures. The problem with that, as you know, is going through them all and deciding which to keep and use and which to delete. Ugh….!
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sybil said:
What a marvellous nation. So beautiful. Your descriptions are wonderful. I really get a sense of what it’s like there …
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rangewriter said:
Glad you’re enjoying. 😉
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