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Good thing I slept soundly because I was awake with the rising sun. After eating breakfast and making Butterbrots (sandwiches) for lunch, we hopped into Dirk’s quirky Alpha Romero for the two-hour drive to the mountains. His heart was set on taking me to Germany’s highest peak, Zugspitze, but there was still a lot of snow and it would be a slightly longer drive and a longer, more logistically complicated hike. It would have been a superb two-day event, but alas, I had shorted Dirk a day, so we settled on the Ammerwald trail to Hochplatte in Austria instead.
Dirk sniffed because this hike was rated as easy. I’m afraid I’d never survive a difficult hike in the Alps. We climbed over 3,000 feet in about 2.5 hours. My best guess is that we traveled 6.5 miles round trip. After a short beer break at a hunter’s lodge about 2 miles in, it felt like we were climbing a ladder straight up to the sky. There were few switchbacks and very few breaks in elevation gain.Trail maintenance is labor intensive. We came to a stream crossing with fresh new boards across it and workman’s tools scattered about. A few minutes down the trail, we encountered the workmen, hauling the wood on their backs.Minutes later, I began to hear music, the repetitive kind—like rap. I assumed the workers had a boom box in the woods where they fell trees. Then I came around a corner to find a herd of cows grazing in bucolic content. The music was loud! I saw no boom box. Instead, I saw a pickup ahead of us, parked at the spot where a faint two-track road narrowed to a single hiking path. Aha! The workmen had brought pre-cut lumber this far and had only to transport it down trail to the stream crossing. But the rap was not coming from the truck. Where was it coming from?
I was stunned. Sure, I’ve heard of cowbells. I’ve seen cowbells—the kind artists paint and decorators use for gemütlichkeit. I’ve even seen cowbells used as percussion instruments in an orchestra. But an entire herd of cattle each wearing its own distinctive cowbell? Who knew?
Bovine Band Leader
Things went up from there. I could see a notch in the mountains above and correctly guessed our path would take us through the notch and down the other side. We stopped for lunch below the summit to avoid the inevitable wind. As I gazed up from my flowery perch, I noticed little dots moving on the horizon to the left of the pass. People! Way up there? Well, we’re not going up there, thank God!
Looking back over the way we’d come, the Voralpenland.
We’d seen fewer people on this hike than I would encounter on one of my favorite Sawtooth hikes in Idaho. One couple, probably in their late 70s, passed us on their way down from the summit. The woman’s legs were spindles with varicose ropes twinned around them and she had the worst case of knock knees I’ve ever seen. She marched along swinging her hiking poles, eyes focused on the stony path in front of her, her husband scurrying to keep up. Remarkable. If she can, I can, I told myself.
After a short break we resumed our climb. But the pass was not the summit and Cousin Dirk is a goal-oriented man. He began scrambling up Hochblasse, the steep rocky cliff to our right. Delia and I dutifully followed for 100 yards and then looked at each other and shook our heads. No way! It looked too dangerous. Going up is one thing, but coming down? Uh-ah. Chewing the inside of his cheek, Dirk retreated. But then we began looking at the ridge where we’d seen all the other hikers. It was a longer ascent but less steep and rocky. Off we went. Up there where I told myself I didn’t have to go!
Oh yeah. This is way easier . . .
But look what awaited us when we got to the top! The effort was well worth the stunning 360 view.
And of course, we weren’t quite at the top yet . . . We scrambled up a narrow, rocky ridge and felt like we stood on top of the world.
The return trip was much easier. I had been low on water since lunch time. We passed several gorgeous waterfalls. I was relieved to have my SteriPEN so I could snag an extra bottle of sweet Alpine water.
So now I’ve hiked in Austria. The next day would entail canoeing. Never a dull moment with my Germans.
Glenda said:
Good lord you must be in great shape to do this hike! And canoeing the next day!! Beautiful scenery. Thanks for sharing.
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rangewriter said:
Not nearly good enough, Glenda. I just have a ton of determination and hate to admit defeat. 😉
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Dia said:
That’s brilliant that you recorded the sound of the cowbells! I was very curious after your description. They sounded beautiful and melodious to me. And those views from the peak…SO worth the effort! (At least your effort was worth it to me.) I loved hearing you speaking some German. Your accent is excellent…must be in the genes.
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rangewriter said:
Oh cute! You must remember the story I told you about in the genes…! And no, meine Deutsch ist schrecklich! I am a constant source of entertainment for German speakers.
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wheremyfeetare said:
What a wonderful hike, Linda. I want to hike in Austria and listen to cow bells, too! I prefer the uphill over the downhill; I’m clumsy and am nervous about twisting or rolling my ankles. The views are gorgeous. Can’t wait to hear about your water fun.
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rangewriter said:
Funny. Since I’m fearless but out of shape, I greatly prefer the downhill, ankles be damned. (I’m also incredibly lucky with my stupidity. The only time I got hurt was this time: http://wp.me/p1JnwK-LG)
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allesistgut said:
This is so wonderful. And you were very tough to climbed 3000 feet. It looks so lovely there and the view from the top is worth it all. 😉
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rangewriter said:
Vielen Dank!
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sybil said:
Oh my knees ache just thinking of that hike but I’d have done it too. Oh so beautiful and I love your videos. Nice to hear your voice. What adventures !
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rangewriter said:
Thanks, Sybil. My voice. Hey. I guess it’s better than my face…especially if you don’t know good German from really awful German! 😉
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Glenda Marie Talbutt said:
Well, speaking of an active lifestyle. I think your hike in the Alps definitely out does my activities on the cruise. Beautiful pictures!
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rangewriter said:
Thanks, Glenda. That was a pretty full day. My German relatives are a lot more active than I am. They keep me hopping. Which is good, because they also feed me too well!
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Robert Brownbridge Writes Stories and Poetry said:
Some spectacular photos here, fearless woman Linda. I think that part of the world suits you.
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rangewriter said:
Ya think so? Maybe it’s in the genes. Thanks for stopping by, Bob.
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Bryan Hemming said:
The cowbells remind me of my days hitchhiking through Alpine country. Occasionally, after spreading my sleeping bag out in a meadow in the dark, I’d wake to the sound of bells, accompanied by steady munching, next morning.
Great photos and narrative, as always.
By the way,Linda, you might want to turn your iphone to a horizontal (landscape) position when shooting movies. It really works a treat.
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rangewriter said:
Splendid idea on the phone! Thanks. I wonder why I haven’t done so in the past.
Great story about hitchhiking with bovine neighbors. Cowbells would certainly beat alarm clock bells. My only concern might be how close their tail ends came to my sleeping bag while I slept….splat. 😉
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catterel said:
The farmers will tell you that cows are very musical, and recognise the sound of the cowbell worn by the lead cow of their own herd when a bunch of different herds are grazing together in the high pastures in the summer. It helps keep them together with their own “family”.
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rangewriter said:
I can believe that, Cat. But cousin Delia told me that animal rights’ activists are up in arms about cowbells, claiming that the constant “noise” is disturbing to them, yada, yada. I find this very hard to believe because disturbed cows don’t give milk. These cows looked as placid as any I’ve ever been around. I also discussed this with my veterinary friend in Germany, who happens to specialize in cows and is extremely concerned about animal rights. She also thought it was preposterous.
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catterel said:
Ah, that may be one of the differences between German cows and Swiss cows! (My home is in Heidland and all the animals are music-lovers 🙂 )
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rangewriter said:
Why, of course! That’s it. Actually, I think these Austrian bovines were quite content with their music making. 😉
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deansgreatwahoo said:
Wow, Rangewriter! I am sure enjoying your adventures. The Austrian Alps are fantastic. And I’m always so impressed with your photography. Wish I could get my colors so vivid.
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rangewriter said:
Thanks, Dean. The photos in all these travel posts were taken with either an iPhone or a little Canon point n shoot. Then probably all overprocessed, hence the vivid (garish?) color. I did really enjoy the opportunity of getting into those big Austrian mountains and soaking them up.
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My Heartsong said:
Those scenics of the valley are spectacular-makes the effort worthwhile.
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rangewriter said:
Yes, most things in life that require great effort come with rewards. Thank heavens.
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