I first visited Domaine des Garennes (DdG) in 1999. Since then much has changed and little has changed. During my first visit I unexpectedly landed in the middle of the annual riding vacation of a half-dozen German fellows who had been riding and vacationing together for many years. This trip, officially the Tour de Quercy, was earlier in the year, before the tourist season and the broiling sun had ramped up. We rode all day, stopping in small villages for lunch, letting the horses graze in a nearby pasture while we dined on smoked trout and emptied carafes of wine, then wobbled back to our mounts and mercilessly kidded one another as we tried to haul our tipsy asses back into the saddle.
A few more hours of riding in the afternoon took us past the sights of the Quercy region: Rocamadour, Chateau La Treyne, Belcastle, Gouffre de Padirac, St. Sozy, and many more. Each night found us in different lodging; the first was a rather primitive pension that catered to the cycling crowd. It was memorable for the paper-thin walls and two extremely primitive unisex toilet facilities. We spent the final night in Hotel de la Terrasse, a beautifully refurbished castle with rooms in the turret, a swimming pool, fine-linen dining, and located high on the banks of the River Dordogne.
Since I speak a smattering of really bad German and absolutely no French, my unexpected, six German escorts made this trip for me. I knew I would miss them this time around. This year I found that guests are still warmly greeted by Annabella and staff. Hearty meals are still served on a long, farm table, either outside or in, depending upon the weather. Four- and five-course lunches are simple, but artfully plated, nutritious and delicious, served family style, and accompanied by bottomless flasks of red table wine. The horses are as I remember them. But this year, loss hangs heavy in the air. Annabella’s husband, Jean Paul, died about 15 months ago after a difficult, year-long illness.
Jean Paul, before illness brought him down.
Jean Paul was a shy, gentle man who spoke only French and enough Dutch to communicate with Annabella. His family has owned the farm for a long time. Together Jean Paul and Annabella were a team. Jean Paul was the behind-the-scenes organizer who handled the maintenance minutia that accompanies farm life. In addition to the horse operation, DdG offers bed and breakfast hotel services and camping, a family guest house, a small bungalow, a swimming pool, tennis and handball court, and a large event room. During inn-to-inn trips, Jean Paul shuttled luggage and made sure the horses were properly cared for in their temporary quarters, while Annabella helped the riders settle into their quarters. John Paul offered stability and support for their sometimes lofty plans for the property. I suspect he also gently reined in Annabella’s compulsion to rescue all distressed critters, from mice to men. His mother, Paulette, ran the small kitchen into her 80s, a skill that has been passed down to Annabella’s Dutch friend, Isabelle, who not only cooks for people, but also does the shopping, and feeds and wrangles the horses.
Without Jean Paul, Annabella seems slightly adrift. DdG has many underutilized features, all screaming for attention. There are too many details for one person to juggle. Annabella greets her guests for breakfast, guides the rides and shares lunch with guests. She entertains and interacts with guests at dinner, which begins around 8 pm and continues until near midnight. Somewhere within that busy schedule, she must also handle advertising, business communication, billing, and troubleshoot an endless list of maintenance concerns. Her job exceeds 24/7. The French economy, like much of the EU is still rickety from the recession. Bookings are down, taxes are up. Reality is biting at Annabella’s heels. She is a woman whose huge heart wants only to save everyone from pain and discomfort, yet she is still in the grip of her own grief and worry.
Another Isabelle, from the neighboring village of Souzet, comes and goes at odd times of day to clean pots and pans, straighten the kitchen, and perhaps do some housekeeping in the hotel. I remember seeing her 16 years ago and I suspect she is paid a small fee for her part time services. In addition to the Isabelles, a very competent and mature young girl of about 18 spends part of the summer helping out in the kitchen and wrangling horses. When she returns to the Netherlands, I’m not sure who will absorb her wide variety of chores. Aside from these 3 people, Annabella appears to be on her own with this huge responsibility. Jean Paul’s children from a former marriage are uninterested with the place. During the winter, Annabella is there alone—a cold and lonely life for a gregarious and fun-loving person.
glenda hornig said:
The comment page isn’t there anymore and I didn’t get to read this until just now! So sad that Annabelle is going through so much. It sounds like a wonderful place. Was this in Germany or France? Glenda Hornig From: Rangewriter To: youngfern47@yahoo.com Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2015 9:04 AM Subject: [New post] Much has changed and little has changed #yiv5344343673 a:hover {color:red;}#yiv5344343673 a {text-decoration:none;color:#0088cc;}#yiv5344343673 a.yiv5344343673primaryactionlink:link, #yiv5344343673 a.yiv5344343673primaryactionlink:visited {background-color:#2585B2;color:#fff;}#yiv5344343673 a.yiv5344343673primaryactionlink:hover, #yiv5344343673 a.yiv5344343673primaryactionlink:active {background-color:#11729E;color:#fff;}#yiv5344343673 WordPress.com | rangewriter posted: “I first visited Domaine des Garennes (DdG) in 1999. Since then much has changed and little has changed. During my first visit I unexpectedly landed in the middle of the annual riding vacation of a half-dozen German fellows who had been riding and vacation” | |
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btg5885 said:
Thanks again for sharing. I love the little vignettes sprinkled throughout.
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rangewriter said:
Thank you for reading and commenting!
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catterel said:
Sounds far too good a place to be allowed to slide into liquidation – I do hope Annabella can find a suitable business partner.
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rangewriter said:
Yes, but she is particular. It will be difficult to find the right person. She is juggling so much, including the complication of her mom’s ill health in the Netherlands. I wonder how she holds it all together.
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catterel said:
Fingers crossed! Miracles do happen.
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Lynz Real Cooking said:
Very lovely! Poor Annabella I hope she finds things get easier!
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rangewriter said:
Me too! She has such a good heart.
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Lynz Real Cooking said:
So sad!
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wheremyfeetare said:
Such a welcoming and warm spot. Hope happier times return for Annabella too. Did you ride as much this time?
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rangewriter said:
No, I didn’t ride as much this time, but I understood when I came that during the hot summer months the rides would be different. We only rode for about 3 hours in the mornings, leaving afternoons free for exploring by car.
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Bryan Hemming said:
Such a sad tale in many ways. Perhaps the account of your stay will tempt more people to visit. On the other hand, more people to deal with sounds like the last thing they need at this point.
It seems as though Jean-Paul was one of those irreplaceable people. You never realise how big a role they played in your life until they’re gone, however much you loved and appreciated them whilst they were alive. I can only hope time will heal and Annabella will find someone as capable and supportive as he was.
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rangewriter said:
Well said, Bryan. I hope so too.
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